What is this place called Monaco? For a generation of Americans, it was the enchanted kingdom in a modern fairy tale. Monaco’s Prince Rainier III married America’s Hollywood princess Grace Kelly and they lived happily ever after in a storybook palace on the Riviera. For more than a century Monaco has been the Mediterranean playground of the rich, famous and royal. But Monaco is more than a backdrop for an unlikely movie script that somehow came true. It is also more than an idyllic Riviera resort. It is a real country with its own language, traditions, people and a long, sometimes bloody and tumultuous, history.
Long before such things as resorts, there was the harbor. Its prehistoric inhabitants were Ligurians and it first appears in history as Port Hercules, named for the already-old temple to Hercules there. Monaco’s name derives from Monoikos, a name associated with Hercules in ancient Greek writings. Phoenician, Carthaginian and Greek seafarers traded at the fine harbor in antiquity. In later times it was part of the Roman Empire. Julius Caesar launched his campaign against Greece from Monaco’s harbor in the first century BCE.
In the turmoil after Rome’s collapse, Monaco fades from history until 1215, when Genoa built a fortress where the Prince’s Palace now stands. The strategic stronghold traded hands between rival Italian factions until 1331, when Charles Grimaldi triumphed to become Lord of Monaco. As Charles I, he established a rule and a dynasty that still endure. In the 1600s, Monaco’s “Great Century,” the distinguished Lord Honore II forged a favorable alliance with France that expanded Monaco’s land and revenues. He assumed the title of Prince, which still graces his descendants.
During the French Revolution and Empire, France annexed Monaco and the royal family was imprisoned for a time. The treasures of the Palace were auctioned off and it was converted to a barracks, then a hospital and finally a poorhouse. When Napoleon fell from power in 1814 the Grimaldis’ resumed rule. In 1861 Monaco ceded much of its territory to France in exchange for recognition as an independent state and a cash payment. Monaco’s independence was ensured but its resources were drastically reduced. Prince Charles III decided a tourist-based economy was the diminished principality’s best chance for prosperity, and modern Monaco was born.
Starting with a handful of hotels, a theater and a casino in 1863, Monaco has grown to Europe’s premier resort. The Belle Epoque in the late 19th and early 20th Century was when the seaside resort reached its full flower. Caruso and Bernhardt sang there, Bizet and Wagner Operas, as well as stage sets by Picasso debuted there, Casals, Toscanini and Rostropovich conducted the Monte-Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra. Diaghilev brought the Russian Ballet, including the young Nijinsky, to perform and Josephine Baker performed her “scandalous” dances.
Monaco’s glories are far from behind her. It is very much a place to see and be seen on the threshold of the 21st century. The Monte-Carlo Philharmonic and Les Ballets de Monte-Carlo shine as brightly as ever. Le Theatre Princesse Grace and the National Museum help round out the arts. Splendid architecture is everywhere, the magnificent hotels and superb restaurants set an international standard of excellence. And Monte-Carlo is still Monte-Carlo. Outdoors are the Monte-Carlo Golf Club, Monaco Tennis Club, Monaco Yacht club, the Exotic Garden and the Princess Grace Rose Garden. The Monaco Grand Prix is recognized as the Formula One world championship race. Then, of course, there is the gorgeous beach and 300 sunny days a year to enjoy it.
People come to Monaco not just to vacation on the beach or try their luck at the gaming tables but to savor the unique and exquisitely civilized experience that is Monaco. But if you are lucky enough to be there, remember that this miracle by the sea didn’t drop out of the sky for your enjoyment. It took over 700 years of aging, struggle and hard work to make your stay on the Riviera all that it should be. Remember, and be thankful.
